Despite the biting winds still blowing up here in the hills of north Derbyshire, it seems spring has sprung - I saw Jersey Royals in the greengrocers for the first time this year. Still being February, these were in all probability grown under glass, but even so it does seem a little early.

They were being sold at the usual wincingly high price we see for the first few weeks of the season, so common sense said to wait for a while until prices became a bit more reasonable.

It was with this sensible thought that I left the shop carrying a large bag of the little brown beauties, still caked in the Jersey mud I was paying through the nostrils for, and simply boiled and served with butter they definitely upstaged the rather dull farmed trout they accompanied.

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